Resources

Since I've been doing this blog, I've gotten a bunch of comments saying how helpful it is and how great of a resource it's been for people who are considering or planning to move down here to the lovely Buenos of Aires. Which is nice to hear, because it's always been one of my goals to help out other people who took the plunge just like I did (see first post ever).

That being said, there are lots of resources out there that contain a virtual goldmine of information and opinions about everything from the current inflation problem to the best place for pizza. I used some of these myself before coming down, and they helped immeasurably. Others I discovered after being here for a while.

In this post I'm going to list some of the different resources available to tourists, permatourists, expats, exchange students, and anyone else who has been drawn to this country. Because I'm super organized, these will be in categorized list form...I know how happy this will make you all. Oh wait, that's me.

GENERAL RESOURCES
Baexpats.org- forum for expatriates in Argentina; incredibly useful information combined with lots and lots of different opinions; use the search function for a more focused approach, or just browse the different categories and topics to see what people are doing, thinking, planning, asking

landingpadBA- another general information site, geared toward a younger crowd

transitionsabroad.com- general information about moving abroad; some useful links and information, be aware that some of it might be dated

www.cultura.gov.ar (Spanish)

www.museos.buenosaires.gov.ar (Spanish)

http://bloggersinargentina.blogspot.com/ - list of bloggers in Argentina (including me!); click randomly and get a fresh new perspective on the country

HOUSING
myspaceba.com 
apartmentsba.com
craigslist.org
 
NEWS
The Argentimes (English)- excellent source of current events, cultural activities, social issues, travel ideas
buenosairesherald.com (English)
clarin.com (Spanish)
lanacion.com.ar (Spanish)

COMMUNITY PROJECTS
couchsurfing.org- worldwide community of travelers; concept = people travel the world by crashing on other people’s couches; join the Buenos Aires community, and you’ll see lists of events, activities, trips, and general get-togethers with both Argentines and foreigners living or traveling through BA

wwoof.org- World Wide Opportunity for Organic Farming; concept = you live and work (for free) on an organic farm performing whatever duties the owners/family require, and you get a place to live, food, and a great experience (for free); check out the list of participating farms in Argentina and see what kinds of things you could be doing outside of the big city

ONCE YOU’RE HERE
Plataforma10.com (Spanish)- search for and purchase long-distance bus tickets to anywhere in Argentina and several cities in Chile, Brazil, and Peru

guiaoleo (Spanish)- highly used diner’s guidebook; lists most restaurants in Buenos Aires, and you can search for what you want by name, type of food, barrio, price, etc; also features descriptions of the resto, pictures, and reviews by customers

comoviajo.com (Spanish)- enter in your current location and final destination and figure out how to get where you want to go

ole.com.ar (Spanish)- diario deportivo aka sports journal, detailing all the happenings in Argentine and some international sports; because this is Argentina people, the site features mostly football

taringa (Spanish)- Argentine site for downloading or just browsing different things on the internet; features music, videos, programs, etc

compumap (Spanish)- downloadable program that is seriously awesome; similar to comoviajo, you can enter in your current location and final destination and find the exact bus route to get you there; also allows you to search for hospitals, fire stations, police stations, and government buildings; incredible map also shows all of Buenos Aires province with all the street names, train lines, parks, etc; there’s also lots of other functions that I haven’t figured out yet, but will ASAP—download this from taringa and play around!
 
BLOGS
Tourist2townie- great perspective from a guy who is attempting to go from tourist to local; he describes some of the more interesting aspects of Argentine life (ie the Man Kiss)

Saltshaker- blog by the owner of a closed-door restaurant here in BA; in his words “casting a little flavor (and a few aspersions) on the world of food, drink, and life” in Buenos Aires

The Argentine Post- one of my favorite sources for Argentine current events, presented clearly and concisely


So there you go! Hopefully some of these links will be of some use to someone out there! Oh and you can also check out my how-to posts for some explanations of how to navigate life in BA (section on the sidebar). Suerte!

Holy Colonia! A How-To, Illegal Tourist Version

I can’t believe I haven’t done a Colonia post! I mean, this little town is the source of my illegal tourist visa extension…I feel like I owe it at least a glancing description.

The coastal town of Colonia is located directly across from Buenos Aires in Uruguay, and is the definition of “quaint.” It has an historic section, a busier main street, and a waterfront. Basically, Colonia can be summed up like this: everyone drinks mate and carries a thermos with them, prices are significantly higher than in BA because it is a tourist destination, chivito is delicious, and mopeds are loud.

Old ladies walking down a tree-lined path = quaint

Stray dog (fleas!) under pretty flowers and ceramic street sign = quaint

 Cobblestones = quaint, always

A trip to Colonia costs anywhere from around 200 pesos to a lot more, depending on how long you want to stay. In my experience(s), a day trip is enough. This time, I paid 184 pesos for a same-day-return weekend ticket on Buquebus. There are two main companies that run ferries to Colonia, Buquebus and Colonia Express. If you’re planning a trip, check their websites for various prices and remember that weekdays are usually cheaper.

To purchase your ticket, just go to the website and choose your date, time, and type of ticket. Pay with your credit card and you will receive a link to the PDF file that is your ticket. Save this to a flash drive and get it printed at a locutorio or printing place near you. Once you have your ticket, you’re all set.

With Buquebus, there is a fast ferry that takes you over in an hour, and a slow one that takes you over in 16 hours. Actually, it’s only three hours, but depending on your proximity to the screaming children and apathetic parents, it can seem a lot longer.

This must be the fast ferry...check out that wake! Pretty sure the one I was on didn't make a ripple...

(photo ripped from lasescapadas.com)

The Buquebus terminal is located on the corner of Antártida Argentina and Cecilia Grierson, which is basically an extension of Avenida Córdoba. The best way to get there is to take one of the many buses that run up and down Ave Leandro N Alem, get off as close to Córdoba as you can, and then walk the two blocks over to the terminal. You’ll cross two big streets and some old train tracks, but the building is pretty big and you should see lots of people entering and exiting. Just follow the other lemmings.

Check-in is just like in an airport. Wait in line, go to the counter, give the guy your pre-printed ticket and passport, he’ll ask you if you have baggage to check, say no, then he'll direct you up the escalator to customs. Fill out the little form that the check-in guy gave you (if you aren’t Argentine), then go through customs.

That is one thing that’s different about the ferry to Uruguay...you go through customs before you get on the ferry instead of after arriving on the other side. So in BA you’ll go through Uruguayan customs before getting on the boat, and then you’ll get checked by the Argentine customs people on the Uruguayan side before coming home (this is where the anti-deportation prayers come in handy).

When you get on the boat, follow the signs for tourist seating by going up the stairs and heading to the front of the boat. Pick your seat and get comfy. I recommend arriving earlier rather than later, because the boat can fill up pretty quickly and if you want a seat by the window you don’t want to have to fight some histérica Argentine bitch for it. Also, bring entertainment. Three hours of gray water is boring with a capital B. Alternatively, you could just sleep. If you want food, they have a small counter with ridiculously overpriced sandwiches, alfajores, and beverages. For a bit of fresh air, you can head up to the covered deck and take in the sights (more water) and enjoy the brisk (hurricane-like) winds.

Hairstyle courtesy of the Rio de la Plata

Keep in mind that I have done this particular trip several times…hence the slightly sarcastic tone and somewhat jaded opinion. In truth, Colonia is a lovely town and I would highly recommend a visit for those who are looking to get out of the city for a weekend.

Artesanías = quaint

I won’t go into detail about what to actually DO in Colonia…there are tourist websites for that. Just a few things to keep in mind--> 1) it can get kind of windy/cold on the side closer to the water, so bring a jacket if you’re in doubt… 2) be prepared to pay jacked-up prices for food, as there are only a limited number of restaurants and they all cater to tourists… 3) that being said, get a chivito…it’s a DEELISHUS gut-bomb comprised of a layer of French fries, topped with a slab of tender meat, topped with ham-bacon, topped with cheese, topped with a fried egg. Oh, and for your veggies, you get more potatoes in the form of ensalada rusa. You won’t eat again for three days… 4) at around 4 pm, all the lovely teenagers on their mopeds and four-wheelers come out to play, so if you’re trying to relax in the sun or take a nap on the grass near the waterfront, fugheddaboudit…

So that’s it! Colonia in a nutshell, the illegal-tourist version. OH! And because I forgot TT again (abbreves rock), here's a good video by a band called Molotov. They're from Mexico and have an amazing rap-metal-rock-cumbia sound mixed with politically and culturally relevant lyrics...this one is called "Frijolero" and is appropriately themed around the topic of illegal Mexicans in the US. I've heard their next project is about illegal blondes in Argentina...

How to Get a Certificado de Domicilio

But first, HAPPY EASTER! And happy 8 months to me...I am now into my 9th month here in BA and I'm prepping for winter...aka going SHOPPING! However, that's not so fun to blog about, so here's a how-to that I did a while ago. 

One of the endless pieces of paper that you will need if you want to apply for certain legal documents here in Argentina is a Certificado de Domicilio. Essentially, this is a little piece of paper that certifies that you are in fact living where you say you do. Out of all the documents you need in order to begin the process of “going legal,” the Certificado de Domicilio is one of the easiest to obtain.

To get this paper, you have to go to your local police station or “comisaría.” Depending on where you live, your comisaría will be different. To find the station for your area, go to this site and enter in your street name, then choose the number or “altura."

Once you know where your comisaría is, head on over and ask a policeman where to get a Certificado de Domicilio…they will point you in the right direction. When it's your turn to talk to someone, just say that you need a Certificado de Domicilio and they will ask for your passport. After they record your name and passport number they will ask for your address. They will also ask you what you want the Certificado for...just say "para ANSES." Then you pay the 10 peso fee.

After they take your information, they will tell you that someone will come around to your place of residence within the next 72 hours to verify that you do live there. However, someone will usually come the very next day. For me, I went in the afternoon on a Monday and someone showed up at 10 am on Tuesday…very efficient for Buenos Aires, to be honest.

When the policeman rings your buzzer, all you have to do is go down with your passport and show it to him so he can verify that you are the person who is claiming to live at that address. Then he’ll give you a little piece of paper (see below), stamp it and sign it in a very official manner, and then depart, leaving you standing there wondering “Is that all?”

The answer being yes, that is all. Like I said, a piece of cake compared to some other things that are required during the getting-legal process (aka FBI reports, fingerprints being sent across continents to verify that I haven’t killed anyone in the last 5 years, etc).

A few important notes: 1) It doesn’t matter if you are in a hostel, student residence, apartment, or house…the process is exactly the same. Just give the address of the hostel or residence and then make sure you are there when the person comes to check on you. 2) Alternatively, if you can’t be there (work, prior engagement, subway strike keeps you stuck underground for 45 minutes) give your passport to someone you trust (landlord, roommate, hostel reception, etc) and they can show it to the person who comes to check. Suerte!

How To: Empanadas!

One of the things that you have to try if you come to Argentina are the empanadas. I mean, duh. Besides the wine and beef, Argentina is known for its ubiquitous empanadas, literal translation = little packages of yum. Seriously.

Empanadas are everywhere, and for good reason—they’re delicious, they’re cheap, they’re easy to eat and relatively easy to make, and they fill you up. It’s surprising really…I’m a big fan of eating and can generally pack away as much as the next fatty, but with empanadas I max out at three (hangs head in shame).

Here in BA, empanadas can be a meal or a snack, depending on the time of day. Order a bunch and you'll have a delicious if exceedingly unhealthy dinner, or just get a few to tide you over between lunch and dinner. They're also great as late night snacks and are a popular party food (see below picture of standard Argentine gathering fare--wine, fernet, vodka, beer, cigarettes, and a GIANT box of empanadas).

Empanadas come in many different forms, and I’m not just talking about fillings. You can get fried empanadas (fritas) or baked empanadas (al horno), tucumanas or salteñas. Since empanadas originate in the northwest of Argentina, empanadas from Tucumán or Salta are considered more authentic. The differences vary, the main one being that the filling in empanadas salteñas usually contains red pepper and peas, and the size is a bit smaller than other empanadas. But honestly, they’re all delicious, so it doesn’t really matter.

Common fillings you will find here in BA include:
Carne- beef (usually with pieces of hardboiled eggs, onions, olives, raisins, and/or peppers)
Carne picante- spicy beef
Carne cortado a cuchillo
Pollo- chicken
Cebolla y queso- onion and cheese (my favorite!)
Jamón y queso- omnipresent ham and cheese
Humita- sweet corn and white sauce
Verdura- vegetables, usually spinach, onions, or other vegetable with white sauce
Caprese- mozzarella, basil, tomato

Some places also offer a wider range of empanadas, such as:
Roquefort (cheese)
Champignon- mushrooms
Atún- tuna
Panceta y ciruela- bacon and plum
Cerdo- pork
Cordero- lamb

When you order empanadas, you’ll usually get a piece of paper with little pictures of the different shapes of each empanada so that you can tell what is what. For example, the jamón y queso ones might be round, while the pollo ones might have a braided edge. It all depends. If you don’t get a paper, you’ll just have to try them all, one by succulent one! Sometimes life sucks like that.

After living in BA for 8 months (it will be 8 in April, I always round up) I’ve had my fair share of empanadas. Some have been bad (late night request to a very obliging taxi driver resulting in a not-so-stellar next day), and some have been mediocre.

However, the best empanadas I’ve had are from Pekín, a pizza/empanada place in Palermo. They do delivery, and each delicious bundle of joy is only 3 pesos (except the classy cordero—apparently baby animals cost more). I highly recommend all of their options, except the humita—wasn’t so good. But the carne picante is actually picante, the ceballa y queso is to die for, and don’t get me started on the panceta y ciruela…DROOL. Order them today, you won’t be disappointed. Here’s the number: 4833-9600. Go. Now. You’re welcome.

Other Empanada Places:
El Sanjuanino- “raved” about by tourist guides…nothing super special in my opinion but still good
Tatú- empanadas salteñas
Solo Empanadas- cheapest chain out there, not the greatest but OK if you’re on a budget or under the influence
La Cupertina- another raver, never tried them so you'll have to let me know
Cumaná- never had their empanadas, but if they’re half as good as their fugazetta pizza, I’ll be happy

Happy Empanada-ing!

A Butaca Briefing

I’ve gotten several questions about long-distance buses that I’m going to try and answer here. First, seats (butacas). I realize that Plataforma10 gives you lots of options, especially if you’re heading to a fairly common destination, like Córdoba, Salta, Rosario, or Mar del Plata. The seat names can be confusing, mainly because they are all so similar and also because they are amazingly non-descriptive—I mean, semi-cama? How semi is semi?! Let’s explore.

In general, Semi-cama seats are the least-reclining of all seats, usually tilting back to a 120 degree angle. Cama is the next step up, with seats that recline to about 140 degrees. Cama Suite, Coche Suite, or just Suite usually means 180 degrees of sweet, sweet recline, aka completely horizontal. These seats are often a bit wider than the other kinds and there’s more space between each seat. Seats with Plus or Super in the name are also usually 180 degree seats. Cama VIP, Cama Ejecutivo or just Ejecutivo seats are tricky—it depends on the bus company, but they are usually between 160 and 180 degree recline. If it says c/ servicio after the seat name, that means you get food. However, if doesn’t say c/servicio, it doesn’t necessarily mean that you don’t get food. 

Since my descriptions are about as useful as tits on a snake, you can also use Plataforma10 itself (no, I don’t know where that expression comes from but it’s compelling, no?) When you search for a particular destination and date, the bus company will be on the far left side of the list that comes up. Click on it and you will be taken to a page that describes the different seat types--with degrees of recline--and service options that the company provides (comodidades según servicio de omnibus). It will also list all the principal cities the company hits on its routes. (Note: if the page shows up with no information on it, as it might occasionally, then you can just type the name of the company into Google and look up the Servicios section on their website.)

Of course, the Plataforma10 information is in Spanish which is pretty unhelpful if you don’t speak Spanish. Here are some of the more common terms you will find:

Butaca- seat
Bandeja de apoyo or apoya piernas- foot/leg rest
Mantas y almohadas- blankets and pillows
Desayuno- breakfast
Cena- dinner
Aire accondicionado y calefacción- heating and AC
Servicio a bordo- on-board service (entrada fría, cena caliente, desayuno = cold appetizer, hot main dish, breakfast)
Luces de lectura- Reading lights
Separador y cortina entre butacas- curtain between seats for privacy
Películas- movies
Café, agua, vinos, gaseosas- coffee, water, wine, sodas
Minibar- no translation required :)

No matter which bus you choose, there will always be a bathroom available, and there will always be a water cooler near the front if you get thirsty. Almost all buses have leg or foot rests for each seat, and curtains on the windows. If you are going on a long trip, they will feed you or you will be able to get off at certain stops and buy food. Even on shorter trips, the company will often leave a little box or bag of standard Argentine snacks, aka alfajores and crackers. They aren’t going to leave you high and dry on a long trip, but if you’re worried about food or drink, you can always bring your own!

To Provincia and Beyond: Long Distance Buses Part 2

Welcome to the second half of my new series on long-distance buses: Retiro’s Bus Terminal or the Definition of “Quilombo.” A few days ago I covered the basics and how to buy tickets, HERE. Today we’ll go over the layout of the bus station and how not to miss your bus and have to go sprinting down a busy highway to where it has embarrassingly pulled over to wait for you. Yeah.

OK. So you have your ticket(s) in hand and are making your way to the Retiro bus station, about 45 minutes to an hour before your bus is supposed to depart. If you come by Subte, take the C line to Retiro, head up the staircase on the right after you exit the platform area and keep going straight, passing the train station on the left. Go almost all the way to the end of the street, passing all the little food vendors, stores, and restaurants (who goes out to eat in Retiro?!) until you come to the last building on the block. It’ll be a big green building on the left, and you’ll see an open entrance with a long ramp heading up into the terminal. Go in there and walk up until you sense that you have entered the tenth circle of hell. Just kidding.

There are about 120 slots or platforms outside for the various buses to pull into, which makes for a long-ass terminal. Consequently, the slots are divided up into sections A, B, C, etc, each comprised of about 15 platforms each. Your ticket will tell you the section your bus will be arriving in, but not the exact platform. For example, when I went to Villa Gesell, my ticket said the bus would arrive somewhere between Platforms 37 to 51 in Section D.

You will want to head to the section listed on your ticket, then check the large sign located at the start of each section to see if your bus is listed—the bus company, destination, and departure time will be displayed, along with the platform. Tip: the name of your bus company is on the top of your ticket, in the middle. If it’s not on the board yet, sit yourself down near one of the TV monitors that show the arrivals (arribos) and departures (partidas) of all the buses in Retiro and keep an eye out for your bus.

If all goes smoothly, your bus will appear on the screen along with the platform it will be arriving at shortly. Go to that platform. If you have luggage you want to be stored in the bottom of the bus, head to the back where there will be a man chucking bags inside the belly of the beast, and hand over your stuff. Then, go back to the front door and give your ticket to the men standing outside. One of them will read your ticket number and seat assignment to the other one, who will check it off on a little piece of paper. They will rip off the right side of your ticket, tell you if you’re upstairs or downstairs, and then you can get on! Donezo.

However, if your bus hasn’t shown up on the screen about 5 minutes before it’s supposed to depart, don’t be afraid to ask questions. If you see a bus from the same company in a platform near you, show the men outside your ticket and ask if it’s the right bus. If it’s not, they might be able to tell you whether your bus is running late or not. There are often several buses from the same company leaving at around the same time, which is confusing, but again, don’t be afraid to ask someone. When it comes to Retiro, it’s always better to ask and look like a stupid tourist than to miss your bus.

Story time. When I and some friends went to Villa General Belgrano for Octoberfest, the bus never showed up on the screen, and it left without us. All 4 of us, plus 2 other girls, swore we had been watching the screen and the thing just never came up. So, eventually we ran upstairs to where all the ticket counters for the bus companies are located and told the guy there that our bus never came. He said that it had come, and had already left as well. Anyway, we freaked out—there was no WAY we were not making it to Octoberfest!!—and the poor guy called the bus driver to ask how far he’d gotten. Fortunately he hadn’t gone far and we ended up running, bags and all, down this highway to where the bus had pulled over onto the shoulder for us. It was highly embarrassing traipsing through the bus to our seats, but it turned out all right in the end---->

 

BEERFEST1!!

And now some tips for the journey. Wear pants and take a sweater, because it gets cold. Not kidding. I always end up huddled under my handy "pink thing" (it’s actually a giant pink sarong, and it does everything: beach towel, dress, scarf, sheet) wishing I had more clothes on. Socks are a good idea too. Books and iPods are always useful, especially for longer journeys, and consider bringing an eye mask and earplugs if you’re going to want to sleep—you never know where the screaming child will be sitting. 

 Pink Thing

And that’s about it! Apart from being really hectic all the time, the Retiro terminal is actually quite efficient, considering the amount of traffic it deals with, both vehicular and human. Just don’t buy gum there…it’s like 6 pesos for 4 pieces. Anyway, I hope this little guide helps, because it would be a shame to come all the way to Buenos Aires and not see the rest of the country. Those of you already here, you now have no excuse for not traveling, so go! Chau. Hasta luego. Nos vemos. Suerte!

To Provincia and Beyond: Long Distance Buses Part 1

Apparently I'm obsessed with buses. Here is yet another bus how-to, just like my Riding the Colectivo series, except this time we're going long-distance baby! First part of the series: Basics and the Miracle that is Plataforma10. Vamos!

If you're coming to Buenos Aires for any period of time longer than a few weeks, you might want to get out of the city and explore other parts of Argentina. There is so much to this country besides Capital, and life really is completely different outside the Av General Paz. So get out there, OK?!

When traveling inside Argentina, and even to neighboring countries, the best and cheapest way to go is by bus. Plane tickets are absurdly expensive--flying to Santiago, right over the mountains, costs an arm and your first-born child, according to Aerolineas. Anywho, the long distance buses in Argentina are often called "micros" (not that they are micro in any sense of the word) or "omnis," and they go pretty much everywhere: Mendoza, Rosario, Salta, Patagonia, Córdoba, Mar del Plata, Bariloche, El Calafate, Iguazú, Brasil, Paraguay, Chile. I think there's even one to Perú!

They are also very comfortable. Considering how large a nation Argentina is, some might be deterred by 10 or 12 or even 24 hour bus rides, but it really isn't too bad. The seats on the majority of these buses are "cama" or "semi-cama," meaning they recline to a full or almost full horizontal position. None of that bolt-upright, 10 square inches of leg room nonsense they have on airplanes...these seats are the BOMB (couldn't say THAT on a plane either!)

The service on these buses is also excellent, at least from what I've experienced personally. I'm sure there are some bad eggs, but all the companies I've travelled with have been great. On longer trips they provide snacks and meals, which aren't stellar but certainly not awful. The bus I took to Octoberfest even gave us wine with our dinner, WITH free refills! Put me right to sleep. They also play movies of varying caliber, but honestly, we can't blame Nicolas Cage's bad acting on the poor bus companies, now can we.

http://sites.google.com/site/hugogonzalez4/ElRapidoArgentinoInt1804CN_2.jpg 

There are probably a hundred companies that offer service to various locations, but the best way to find a bus to your desired destination is to use a website called Plataforma10.com. When you go to this site, enter in your origin (Retiro if you're leaving from Capital) and your destination, and the date you wish to travel. A list of all the available buses to that destination will appear, with the company name, time of departure, time of arrival, class of seat (cama, semi-cama, cama ejecutivo, etc), number of seats available, and price.

There are a bunch of different seat options, but basically the more expensive the seat, the more it reclines. However, keep in mind that even the cheapest seat option (usually semi-cama) reclines almost completely, and I've travelled in semi-cama seats on 8 and 10 hour trips with no problem.  

Semi-cama seat- check out that recline!

 http://f6.mb-content.com/pictures/591/64/4/464591_LWHENUELMNXKBOW.jpg

To buy your actual tickets (pasajes) there are also several options. You can buy directly through the Plataforma10 website using your credit card, which requires you to sign up and enter in a document/passport number--personally, I don't like putting that kind of stuff on the web. You can also call and buy them if your Spanish is good enough.

Alternatively, you can go back to the home-page and on the left side of the screen, click "Dónde comprar?" A list of locations will appear, organized by barrio, and you can choose the place closest to you, go there, and buy your tickets in person. There is a dropdown menu where you can change the province if you live outside Capital Federal.

The locations in Capital are usually locutorios, or sometimes grocery stores like Disco. There will be a black and orange Plataforma10 sticker on the door or window of the locutorio so you'll know you have the right place (the first time I did this I was so confused...I was expecting more of a travel agency place, and the dinky little locutorio was a surprise!)

To buy your ticket, just tell the person at the counter that you would like to buy "pasajes de Plataforma10" and then tell them the destination and date. They will kindly bring up the actual Plataforma10 page, just like you did at home, and then you can show them which specific bus you would like. You can also choose your seat, aisle (pasillo) or window (ventanilla).

They will ask for a document, so take along a copy of your passport. You pay, and then they print out your tickets. Easy peasy and with no risk of identity theft, always a plus! Up next, we return to Retiro (that place haunts my dreams, people) for the actual catching of the bus. Not as easy as it sounds, but no worries...I got you. :-)

Retiro: Picking Up a Package Part 2

Ok, here’s the second part of how to pick up a package at Correo Internacional. It’s less fun than the first part—not that the first part was fun—but at the end at least you get your package!

http://www.tazascononda.com.ar/CA.jpg

To edit the previous post, there is definitely a big blue Correo Argentina sign on the building, and the door you want is located to the left of the sign. Once you arrive, find the machine that gives you your number (right inside the door) and take the little slip. If your number has three digits, disregard the first digit. This is because the digital screen that displays the numbers only goes from 0 to 99, at which point it starts over again. So if you have 355, disregard the 3 because only 55 will show up on the screen. Important- if there are a lot of people waiting, someone might have the same number but with a different first digit (ie 255 to your 355). If 55 comes up on the screen, approach the counter anyway!! The other boludo might have gone for a sandwich or gotten distracted, so you could jump ahead in line…the counter people don’t care. If the other person shows up with a lower number, just say “Disculpame” and silently curse them.

The other number on the screen will be the counter/caja number (there are 4 or 5 I think). When your number is close to being called, move to the front of the group and be prepared because these people move quickly. Once your number appears on the screen, go to the booth indicated. Hand the employee your (second) notice, along with some form of identification like a copy of your passport your original passport--my roommate Eli went to pick up a package today with just a copy of her passport, was told she needed the original, and had to come alllllll the way home to get it. If you are picking up the package within 4 days of receiving the second notice, you won’t have to pay anything. After the fourth day, you will have to pay 2 pesos per day you didn’t pick it up (there is also an expiration date on the package of 30 days, after which all hell breaks loose and the contents of your treasured package are divided like booty among the CI employees).

Anyway, pay if you have to, then the booth guy will do lots of stamping, tear off a part of your notice, and give it back to you. The little piece of paper that he gives back to you will have a number on the bottom, either 5 or 6 digits, and you will have to sign off again that you received it. Then proceed to the next room, which the employee should point out to you.

Here is where it gets a little bit difficult for non-Spanish-speakers. In earlier instances, the number was displayed on a screen so you could read it and approach when called. In this room, the number is read aloud over a speaker, and you have to listen very carefully for your exact number. They will read all 6 digits, and to make it even harder, different people read the numbers every time, some of who speak ridiculously quickly and apparently with their mouths full of cotton. It’s rough. If your Spanish is a little rusty/nonexistent, I would recommend going with someone who does speak Spanish so they can help you.

*Alternatively, you could cheat a little and just get up whenever, go through the door at the front of the room to where they hand out the packages, and show them your slip saying “No español” or something. I know people who have done this and they get their packages right away. It’s up to you.

If you decide to wait it out or if you speak Spanish, they will call your number eventually and you will go through the little unassuming door at the front of the room. Hand the person your slip and they will give you your package or direct you down to the other end of the room to pick it up. Once you have it in hand, you can head out, signing for the thing one more time on the way out.

And that’s it! Yay package! Again, be careful when heading home, especially in Retiro—a foreigner with an awkward package to carry makes a good target, so keep an eye on your stuff. I have another good Retiro how-to coming up, for those of us who have been here for a while and need to make the dreaded Migraciones trip for an extension of the tourist visa—I went today and it was an experience. Retiro and I are now BFF and I get 90 more days in la Argentina, score.

Retiro: Picking Up a Package

Hi! So, I recently got a sweet comment from someone complimenting me on the blog and saying that my how-to stuff on colectivos/paying bills was really helpful, which made me feel all warm and fuzzy inside. Then I went and took a cold shower because warm and fuzzy isn’t the ideal state to be in on 37 degree days (that’s Celsius people aka 98.6 degrees F). Anyway, it also kind of made me feel bad, because I haven’t posted anything similar recently and I should—almost every day I do something new or have some novel experience that might help others who are planning to come here for extended stays.

One of the more important things I learned during the past few months is how to pick up international packages at Retiro, because who doesn’t love packages?! Yes, the holidays are over now so it’s a little less relevant, but I’ll post about it anyway, just because I can. So there.

First, to get a package, you must have someone send you a package. I recommend emailing or calling all family members and dedicated friends and whining about how you miss peanut butter or how the candy bars here just aren’t the same as a good old Reese’s PB cup. Hopefully they’ll get the hint. If not, don’t be afraid to just come out and demand that they send something—after all, you’re the one who moved all the way to South America, alone, broke, and looking for adventure!

Once said package is en route, you can expect to wait anywhere from a few days to forever (unfortunately) for your package to arrive. In general, unless it gets lost in the mail or detained at customs, you should receive a notice saying that you have a package within two or three weeks. This notice will be a little square of paper slipped under your door or left with the porter and will tell you that you have to go to the nearest post office location to pick up (retirar) your package. It should list the post office that’s closest to your house--Argentina is helpful like that.

However, this notice is a lie! Well, sometimes. Depending on the size of your package, they might actually have it waiting for you at the post office, but if your package is decently sized, it will have gone to the Correo Internacional. Take your notice to the post office location listed, and look for an area that says “Para retirar encomiendas/paquetes” or something similar (if you don’t see any obvious signs, just ask someone using the same phrase above). Depending on the location, the place for picking up packages will be separate from the main area where people are sending letters, etc. At my post office on Puerreydon (between Santa Fe and Charcas) the place for picking up packages is on the left hand side as you walk in. You will have to take a number and wait until it is called or appears on a little digital screen. Oh, and get used to those screens, there’s more where this one comes from.

When your number is called, approach the window and hand your notice to the lovely Correo employee, who will do lots of stamping, etc, then hopefully disappear and return with your package. However, the odds of this happening are slim. More than likely you will receive another piece of paper saying that your package is being held for you at the Correo Internacional in Retiro, and that you must go there and get it if you want to see it alive. The Correo employee will have you sign off that you got the new notice and then you’re good to go.

Unfortunately, the Correo Internacional is only open between 10 and 5 Monday through Friday, which makes it hard for people who have regular jobs. The address is on the new notice you will receive (Letonia y Avenida Antartida), which to be honest doesn’t really help because the streets in that part of Retiro are, as we would say in Castellano, jodidas. Unless you can take a taxi there, going by bus or Subte is the best way.

Using your handy Guia-T you can find a bus that will take you to Retiro—there are tons of them. Or, take the Subte (C-line) towards Retiro. If you take the Subte, get off the train and walk out to the main area, following the hordes of people because believe me, there will be hordes. Take the staircase farthest to the right (next to the shady food place) to go up and out of the station, and then keep walking straight for about 4 blocks. You will pass the train station and then the microbus station on your left. Keep your hand on your bag and walk with a purpose—Retiro is notorious as a place for getting robbed. When you come to the end of the main drag, you will be facing Avenida Antartida, a wide street that runs diagonally. Cross the street and head to the right.

You’ll see two or three buildings on your left, and I’m pretty sure one says Correo Internacional on it. If not, aim for the middle of the buildings, pass through a little gate, and you should see a line/mass of people waiting outside a door. This is Correo Internacional.

I’ll post the second part of this tomorrow—I didn’t realize it was going to be such a long post, but picking up a package definitely takes some explaining. It’s worth it though, especially if the sender really loves you!

Paying Bills in BA

BILLS. Everyone’s got ‘em. Everyone hates ‘em. But they have to be paid, otherwise we don’t get hot water or lights or Internets. Now, no hot water I could deal with, but no Internet?! Sweet mercy, not that!

Back in the States bills are mostly paid online, or by sending off checks in little envelopes the companies so generously provide along with their demands for payment. But here, bills are paid differently. In general, transactions in Argentina are done using cash (efectivo) as opposed to with credit/debit cards, and paying monthly bills (facturas) is no exception.

The easiest way to pay a bill in Buenos Aires is to take it to a location that has a Pago Fácil (Easy Pay) or, to a lesser extent Rapipago (Quick Pay). You can find Pago Fácils (plural?) in most Farmacitys and also in various grocery stores, locutorios, and some kiosks--there will always be a sign/sticker indicating a Pago Fácil location (see lovely Google images graphic). Rapipagos are fewer and farther between, but they will also have signs indicating their locations. It’s best if you can find a smaller location that is off the main roads to pay your bills at, because the larger stores like Farmacity tend to have ridiculously long lines of people waiting to pay their various facturas. For example, today I waited about 40 minutes to pay three bills. Typical.

Anyway, once you find a Pago Fácil, it really is very easy. You hand the cashier your bill, he rings it up as if it were a bag of cookies, he tells you the amount, and you give him the cash. Then he will take the factura and run it through a machine that that will print your receipt right on the actual bill. Say “Gracias,” and you’re done! Apart from the waiting in long lines sometimes, it really is a pretty effective system, and given the reliability of the Argentine post, I would say it’s a lot more trustworthy than sending off checks. Plus, a lot of “tourists” live here “illegally” and don’t have checks, so it’s great for people like us. With cash, no one asks questions. How mafia.

If you miss the window of payment (vencimiento), or both windows of payment considering they usually give you two, you will probably have to go to the office of the company to pay the bill. The address will most likely be listed on the factura, and when you get to the office the procedure will be the same. Present bill, pay, get it stamped, done. I recently had to do this for a Metrogas bill, and it couldn’t have been simpler. Now if only there were a South America Fácil…Argentina could use an Easy Button, fo sho.